Friday, 16 July 2021

My dream wedding venue became a Margaritaville - here are the good, bad, and puzzling changes made to an iconic midcentury Palm Springs hotel


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My wedding at the Riviera vs. the Margaritaville Palm Springs lobby
My wedding at the Riviera vs. the giant flip flop in the Margaritaville Palm Springs lobby.
  • I held my dream wedding at the Riviera Palm Springs in California, a hotel rich with Hollywood lore.
  • It has since reopened as a Margaritaville resort - a contrast to its history as a midcentury hotel.
  • Despite the bittersweet changes, it has become a value-oriented, family-friendly destination in pricey Palm Springs.

Before I got married, I always dreamt of my wedding. And as an avid traveler, I knew it would be a destination day. So when it came time to plan it, my husband and I landed on Palm Springs, California, a happy space to savor stunning desert views, incredible hiking, design-forward hotels, and vibrant culture.

We were married in November 2019 at the Riviera Palm Springs, an icon for midcentury style and history. It was the ideal venue, steeped in elegance and we were married in a lush garden merging Palm Springs nostalgia with romantic desert scenery.

But shortly after saying "I do," the pandemic hit, and like most hotels, the Riviera was forced to close its doors. However, when it reopened a little over a year later, it was different - a lot different. My classic Riviera was now a Margaritaville. Yes, that Margaritaville, a popular chain of beach-themed hotels and resorts made famous by Jimmy Buffet, a laid-back "It's Five O'Clock Somewhere" vibe, and that frozen concoction that helps you hang on.

I was stunned, saddened, horrified (more on why in a minute) but after a cooldown period, I was able to acknowledge that reopening as a Margaritaville brought something to the desert that didn't exist in a sea of restored retro motels, intimate boutique lodgings, and luxury enclaves.

Determined to keep a connection to a place that meant so much, I checked into Margaritaville Palm Springs with my husband and eight-month-old baby. Here's a look at how the new hotel compares, with photos from my recent stay and my wedding.

My initial shock
Margaritaville flip flop in lobby
Unlike the Riviera, the lobby at Margaritaville now prominently features a giant floor-to-ceiling size flip flop, and a chandelier crafted from margarita glasses.

To fully understand my initial feelings about the Riviera-turned-Margaritaville news, know this.

Built in 1958, the "Riv" was one of the first major hotels to draw Hollywood royalty to the desert, with Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Marilyn Monroe, Bob Hope, and numerous other celebrities holding court. It was historic, infused with nostalgia, and a sweeping show of midcentury style.

And now my dream venue was gone, reinvented as a flashy resort with a giant life size flip flop in the lobby that just seemed antithetical to the very identity of the city.

This trademark of Margaritaville is emblematic of the hotel's laidback spirit. There's no pretension, which, truthfully, you may find in other Palm Springs hotels. Out goes the A-list exclusivity of the "Rat Pack" era, in comes a more inclusive and casual setting for all.

That's well and good but when all the social media geotags from my wedding automatically updated to say Margaritaville, I was downright embarrassed. To the unknown, it appeared on Instagram and Facebook as if I had intentionally married at a Margaritaville. How was I supposed to let the world know that that was not really the case?

The Riviera on the stairs/Margaritaville stairs with baby
My daughter Violet joined to recreate this photo.

I also always dreamt of coming back with my future children, to proudly show off the place their parents had married, a beacon of style and grace.

This full-circle moment with my daughter wasn't exactly how I'd envisioned it.

However, Margaritaville, despite a party-friendly reputation, is also family-friendly. In truth, I can't think of any other such place in all of Palm Springs.

There was now an affordable, family-friendly resort in the desert city that appeals equally to parents looking to kick back with a drink while watching their kids swim in the pool, groups of friends celebrating birthday and bachelorettes, couples seeking a budget-friendly getaway, and, of course, the Jimmy Buffet devotees affectionately known as Parrot Heads.

The lobby
Lobby of The Riviera vs. lobby of Margaritaville
My husband and I posed for wedding pictures in the lobby. The statement walls are the same in Margaritaville.

Upon checking in, I immediately set off to see how things had changed.

The Riviera, er, Margaritaville always wowed immediately, with a sweeping, dramatic lobby with soaring ceilings, stylish decor, and intricate latticework backed by mint green walls.

At first glance, the rebranded hotel looked largely the same, though low-slung vintage seating was swapped for beachy wicker and tropical accents.

The Riviera vignette vs Margaritaville vignette
Midcentury modern seating areas now feature beachy decor and Jimmy Buffet quotes.

One of my favorite parts of the Riviera was a series of designer vignettes off the lobby with a midcentury palette of gem tones, plush fabrics, and sleek wood. 

Some of these sections remained, though the look was more washed wood and bold colors. Less appealing to design aficionados, but not unattractive by any means.

The Riviera pool table room vs Margaritaville coffee bar and store
My husband and I posed in a stylish, curated corner of the Riviera that is now a coffee shop and store.

Margaritaville also removed some seating areas to add a large store with a coffee bar and grab-and-go breakfast and pizzas, which the Riviera sorely needed. While I won't be able to recreate this photo, I know mornings just became much easier with caffeine at the ready.

Margaritaville quote on the wall
Margaritaville hallways are adorned with Jimmy Buffet lyrics.

And in case you ever forget where you are, popular Jimmy Buffet song lyrics feature heavily throughout.

My room at Margaritaville
Margaritaville suite living room pic
The living room area in the Chill Out Suite at Margaritaville.

I've stayed in many rooms at the Riviera, including both a Junior Suite and the one-bedroom Starlight Suite (now known as the Paradise Suite), which comes with a private hot tub. 

For the wedding, many family and friends stayed in standard King or Double Queen rooms, and my parents and in-laws stayed in another one-bedroom offering. 

During those visits, Riviera rooms were hit or miss. Many had dated furniture with scuffs and dings that were in need of renovation, including my top-end wedding night suite.

Margaritaville suite bedroom
The new bedroom has fresh carpets, airy furnishings, and a duvet with subtle parrot imagery.

This is where Margaritaville was the most impressive. Drab brown carpets and dark and nicked furniture were swapped for light colors and crisp, bright furnishings.

The rooms appeared larger and airier, especially my one-bedroom Chill Out Suite, which was the same room our parents stayed in during the wedding. It looked much improved.

Margaritaville suite tub
Most suites have a standalone soaking tub.

The bathroom was exactly the same, however, as when I last visited with double sinks, a standalone soaking tub, and a walk-in shower. The tub is included in premium rooms and suites. 

In my room, the shower was separated from the tub and sinks by a door, in the same room as the toilet, which seemed an odd choice.

Margaritaville bathroom sink
The double sinks are exposed.

While room upgrades were visible, it was clear some elements were not improved. Both the bedroom door and the door to the toilet were hard to close, with worn-away paint that had never been touched. The windows looked as if they hadn't been washed in years and the sinks were slow to drain (this was a problem during Riviera days, too).

Traveling with kids
Margaritaville suite with baby
Margaritaville suites are great for families who need extra space without shelling out hundreds of extra dollars.

But overall, it was a quiet, spacious, and comfortable room — a welcome respite as I was visiting over a holiday weekend that saw some raucous crowds. But, tucked away in the room, you would never know it. 

The hotel was also accommodating to those traveling with a baby, supplying a pack-and-play crib. 

And while Emily the bride preferred a posh, design-forward hotel, Emily the mom did appreciate that my daughter was welcome in all restaurants and common areas without judgment over any fits or tears. I'm not sure I'd feel the same elsewhere.

More so, a two-room suite starts around $200, a fraction of what it would cost elsewhere in the city. This is great for families on a budget.

Amenities at Margaritaville
The Riviera pool vs Margaritaville pool
The Margaritaville has a great main pool complex that is the same as it was during Riviera days.

The main pool at Margaritaville looked identical to its prior incarnation, with the same orange chairs and configuration. 

The pool bar was now dubbed the 5 O'Clock Somewhere Bar, flanked by the St. Somewhere spa, gym, and salon — again, reinforcing the Jimmy Buffett theme. I did not sample those venues, but the spa appears the same as its former life as a peaceful retreat merging Moroccan hammam with desert glam. It's also regarded as the largest spa in Palm Springs.

The Riviera courtyard vs Margaritaville courtyard and restaurant
The courtyard at the hotel's restaurants is one of my favorite spots.

One restaurant, Come Monday, was open for breakfast and lunch, while JWB Grill was open for dinner. They served largely the same menu, likely a result of reduced offerings during the pandemic, so choices may feel tired if you're only staying on-site.

The setting for both is exactly the same as where I hosted my wedding cocktail hour, with an indoor restaurant that flows into a lush outdoor courtyard.

margarita at Margaritaville
My margarita in Margaritaville.

Naturally, I ordered a margarita at the lobby bar known as License 2 Chill, where I took many wedding pictures and hosted an after-party. 

Sadly, my margarita, while delicious, tasted more like an orange juice cocktail than a tangy marg. Next time, I'd order one at the pool where they have a special margarita menu.

My wedding venue
The Riviera wedding venue vs Margaritaville wedding venue
The garden decked out for my wedding now looks like it hasn't been used for some time.

The Margaritaville grounds are still quite lovely, including my wedding site, though it looked a little neglected with the pergola showing discoloration. However, I presume that's likely due to a lack of weddings and events during the pandemic.

COVID-19 policies and safety
Margaritaville PPE wipes in suite
PPE such as sanitizing wipes were provided in my room.

California relaxed COVID-19 restrictions just before my visit, so I did not see many people wearing masks or maintaining distance. 

My room, however, felt exceptionally clean and came with sanitizing wipes. Floor markers throughout the hotel reminded guests to keep their distance, even if it wasn't followed.

Value
Balcony view at Margaritaville

Like the Riviera before it, Margaritaville is one of the more affordable hotels in Palm Springs for a large resort-like experience.

Standard rooms start at $107 per night in summer and rise to between $240 and $332 per night for an entry-level room in winter, when Palm Springs becomes a popular destination.

For a suite like mine, expect to pay between $199 and $426, depending on the day of the week and the time of year.

The bottom line

In all honesty, I would not have selected Margaritaville as my wedding venue. It's not Palm Springs-centric like the Riviera was and carries an altogether different vibe. It eschews the iconic nostalgia the Riviera radiated, and midcentury design aficionados, luxury seekers, and Palm Springs purists will scoff at staying here. 

However, Margaritaville breathed new life into tired rooms that are now renovated, quiet, and comfortable. Core elements like the great pool, large spa, and manicured grounds remain, and while the hotel draws crowds, the sprawling size keeps them at bay. 

But Margaritaville's most compelling point is that its fun spirit (though at times somewhat cheesy) was not previously found in Palm Springs. As such, the hotel fills a void that eluded families and visitors who wanted neither a vintage boutique inn nor fancy luxury.

Margaritaville isn't trying to be anything other than Margaritaville, a hotel that draws a devoted following for its relaxed demeanor, family-friendly attitude, affordable prices, and Jimmy Buffet groupies. Spend a weekend by the pool, enjoy the lively party scene, or ignore it completely. Anyone seeking a laid-back, well-priced stay in comfortable rooms with a central Palm Springs location would do well to book, or in some cases, maybe even get married.

Book a room at the Margaritaville Palm Springs starting at $107 per night

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